Monday, June 30, 2008

Epidemius With Washes





Painted the Epidemius model , using lots of washes, great model.







its not finished yet , but I wanted to show some of the pics.

John

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Having fun with the squigs

My favorite model from GW is Skarsnik and Gobbla, the Warhammer Goblin leader with his faithful squig. I think the model is outstanding and recently won 10 th place in the top 25 Best Warhammer Models of all time.

I really wanted to use this squig in my 40K army, so I decided to add him as the third squig in my Tankbustas group. It worked out perfectly, because the unit comes with only two squigs in the box and they are allowed to have three.

I didn't do anything to him, besides changing his position and adding the explosive.

Very easy and great fun to look at once on the battlefield.

Imagine those poor I.G. soldiers when they see this yellow monster chasing after them..
mike

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Painting Nurgle Death Guard / Plague Marines

I had an email from a viewer who asked how I paint the Nurgle Deathguard, so here we go, sort of a speed paint version, as I would take more time on a special model, but here is a regular troop.

First black primer.



then a heavy dry brush of a medium green color, I like to mix it up a bit here so they all look a bit different, this time I mixed Goblin Green with Camo Green on the armor.



then a light drybrush of Dark Flesh on the armor and the bolter



and then a light dry brush of Rotten Flesh to the armor, and dry brush some Tinbitz on the bolter and backpack nozzles, then some Boltgun Metal to the same metal bits.



and a wash of Ogryn Flesh wash



and a bit of Bleached Bone on the horns and some 'Ard Kote here and there to add a bit of
dampness and he's done.



Easy and dark and sinister looking.

John

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Converting toys into great 40K models: the Warbuggy

I was slightly disappointed that GW did not redesign the warbuggy and the wartrakk with the new Ork Codex, since they have lots of potential for outlandish design, both for professionals and amateurs like myself. In my hobby store one of those buggies goes still for $25.00, which is a little much for my taste. One night, while browsing in the sale section I found a beat-up box of a Robogear Helix and I remembered that this guy Irondog (we have his blog on our blog roll) used some of their models in conversions.

Amazingly, the Helix is absolutely PERFECT for Warhammer 40K.

It has trakks (which are legal in the codex) and twinlinked rokkits (also legal). For the driver I used the legs of an old trukk driver (very small legs compared to todays models) and added a normal torso with the most crazy head I had laying around. Of course I did add the usual Ork paraphernalia to this model, like skulls, pieces of armour etc.


By the way, the rokkits can actually be fired and can go up to 6 feet, using a little spring inside the launcher. In my first game against the Guard, I had great fun trying to actually shoot down some guys..

The models are very hard to get and the website www.robogear.com says that everything is sold out. I am not sure if the company still exists. I found this link
http://www.robogear.ru/eng/
so try that and on Ebay one seller has a bunch of models.
Hope it inspires to do some fun stuff! If anyone knows anything about this, let us know and I will buy at least two more of these if the price is right!
Mike

Sunday, June 22, 2008

How to make lots of Gretchin...with Gnoblars

Playing Orks means you can't take the game all that seriously, they get killed so easy, it's pretty hard for me to ever win a game with them. But, like Imperial Guard, they instill lots of love in your heart. So it is with the gretchin, who are a pretty sad bunch of fighters, but I love to field them, they are just great fun to play with and look at. Games Workshop had made a limited amount of models and they are all awesome but if you want to field 30 or 40, they all start to look the same. I have once seen some Gorkamorka pirates but haven't been able to put my hand on those. Anyway, our buddy Christian advised me to use the Warhammer Gnoblars to make large amounts of inexpensive grots. The Gnoblars belong to the Ogre Kingdoms and come in a box of 24.


To make the Gretchin, they need to have a grot pistol. Anything will do really, just make it look like a shooty weapon of some sorts. I used the front of bolters, pieces of narrow tube etc.
Here's a group of the Gnoblars/Gretchin with a real Grot on the right.

The dimensions are the same and they look great. I find them kind of hard to paint, they are so small so my apologies for the sloppy paintjob.







Hope this inspires to field many grots!
Mike

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Painting Orks with the new Citadel Washes

After John did his test with the new washes on his Death wing Army, I had to try it on my Orks. I decided to do a painting test in which I tried to weigh quality vs speed. Below are my results. I painted for about 45 minutes.
I started out with two guys, one got the Dark Angels Green, the other the Knarloc Foundation paint.

After that dried, I dry brushed the one guy, let's call him Dark Angel, with the usual Goblin Green. I tried on purpose not be too precise. It's hard for me and all my Orks I usually try to paint perfectly, but this was a test.

The other guy, Knarloc, got a wash of the new Badab Citadel Wash.

My first impression was that the stuff is much lighter then inks and you need to keep throwing it on to really make shadows dark. I can totally see that on a white primered model it works great. Eventually I added some black ink to dark everything up.

In the meantime I gave Dark Angel a dry brush of SnotGreen and started working on his gear. I painted his outfit black, put Tinbitz/Boltgun Metal/Mithril Silver on his equipment and painted his teeth with Bestial Brown/Bleached Bone/Skull White.

After all that, Knarloc was still not dry, in the mouth especially. The arms looked nice and subtle and the picture shows the washes work really well in muted fashion.

I gave Dark Angel a quick coat of glossy varnish over his outfit and there! He was finished. Poor old Knarloc, he still wasn't dry and I could not even put a drybrush over his face without smearing.

Conclusion, for speedy Ork Painting, stick with the drybrush method. It saves you time and will make your model look really punchy. The washes will work well on vehicles (subtle rusty look) or white models like the Deathwing or Woodelves in winter outfit (one of my armies) and they don't seem to be so intense as the inks. I LOVE the fact that the washes are MATTE, that's awesome.
I am not convinced yet but will try more things and keep you posted.
mike

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Washing the Deathwing



I picked up the new Citadel washes , and decided to give them a try.



I have been slowly painting my Dark Angels Deathwing Terminators, you may have read an earlier post on dipping the Deathwing using Minwax wood stain. I have been looking for a good way to paint these guys as I am modeling the entire Deathwing, all 100 Terminators, and I have been dragging along with the painting for some time. Most will be painted quickly to a decent tabletop standard and I will do better jobs on the characters and command, so here's a quick job on one of the troops.

I started with white spray primer, then bleached bone and then a wash with the new Ogryn Flesh wash.



then I used the Devlan Mud to wash some of the parts that I wanted a bit darker shadows in, like the vents on the back and the leg joints and emblems.



then I added the base colors to the details



gave those a wash with the new washes to blend them in and add some shadow.



then picked out the highlights, and drybrushed the bolter with gunmetal.



next I went back over and cleaned up with Bleached Bone leaving the wash showing in the low spots, and will add highlights to the armor with a mix of Bleached Bone and Sull White.





Overall I am pleased with the results and I have to say that I like the new washes and find them easy to use. I hope they help to inspire me to finish up my Deathwing soon.

So here is the run down .

1. prime white
2. base Bleached Bone
3. wash Ogryn Flesh wash
4. wash Devlan Mud ( areas that will have darker shadows)
5. paint details: shoulder emblems , chest emblems, eyes, bolter
6. wash details ( I used Thraka Green on the chest wings , Black and Devlin Mud on the other badges.
7. highlight details with lighter shade , or even the same shade as the base , because the wash has darkened it up a bit, also drybrush bolter with Gunmetal.
8. recover unwanted wash with Bleached Bone on the body.
9. Pick higlights on the armor with mix of Bleached Bone and Skull white.
10. Hunt the Fallen and Purge the Unclean.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Making the Scratch Built Stompa

For the massive Apocalypse we are going to have in July I was bent on constructing one more machine: a giant Ork Stompa. I used the model in the GW Apocalypse book as a model and tried with all my spare bitz to copy or mimic the different weapons.
First the starting point: a used juice bottle.

Then I cut up about 50 cardboard pieces and glued them on in a random fashion.

Using the green stuff rivet method I made it look metally and worn, cutting into the pieces and also creating the skull design in the front.

This is the Stompa finished and based.

He is about 10.5 inches long (there is an Ork on his shoulder, so you can compare). I wanted him leaning back a little like he was waddling, but on my first smaller base he kept falling backwards. I attached him to a larger base which fixed the problem.

I added tons of detail to this one, including the skulls hanging from the bosspole, the gravity is moving them to the left. The big gun has a gretchin manning it, there is the ork on the other shoulder and there is a gretchin on the bottom of this frame, hammering away.



Here's the back view.

I used anything I could get my hands on: straws, pens, old pieces from a peterbilt truck model (thanks John), wire, headphone wire, random toys found in the neighborhood etc. It's great! Love making this Ork stuff.

And here is a close up of some of the weapons:
the psycho dakka blasta:

the defgun:

The close combat arm: a titan and baneblade killer with the Destroyer rule...

A bunch of rokkits (yes one is from FW, I left one rokkit of my Fighta Bomma.. The bigger one on the bottom is an IG shell with a little plastic card (thanks Christian)

and the scorcha:

Here's is his foot with guest...

and his lovely face...

and the overall view from above.

All in all one of my favorite scratch builds that I have done. I hope it inspires more people to do this stuff. Now the paintjob...
Cheers!
Mike